MK4/5 Cortina Buyers and Modifiers Guide

Bodywork:

Front wings:

No spray guards mean mud/water collects in the top rear corners rotting on the top face and side wing supports. Check also the front wing to valence seam
Front jacking points:

Common is for the the point to fall through the floor due to rust in the floor panel seams
Front wings/Inner Flitch:

Unlike most Fords these bolt on but they aren't the main problem, its the panels behind that are. Check all the inner flitch flitch especially the hinge panels.
Bulkhead:

Rust occurs especially on the passenger side below the battery. Water combined with battery leaks mean the bulkhead to floor seam rots, indicated by wet carpets.
Front Valence:

Not really a serious problem but stone chipping can cause this area to pepper. New panels are available so its an easy fix.
Scuttle:

If the screen seal fails, water will get below it, and start to destroy the bulkhead. It's the same story with the rear screen too. To put right any damage, you'll at least need to take the windscreen out, and more than likely, will be a lot more complicated than that.
Sills:

Start corroding in the door shuts so lift the door seals. Also check the inner panel around the seatbelt mountings.
Rear Jacking Point:

The floor raises at the final 8 inch of sill around the rear jacking point and the back of the sill disintegrates.
Sunroof:

Not actually the sunroof (Ghia models) but the water channels that lead from it. Check they exit to the road and not the chassis rails, which rot out as a consequence.
Doors:

Normally pretty good but if the drain holes aren't kept clear the bottoms will rot out.
Rear Arches:

Usual Ford crusty area, which can be easily spotted from the outside. Check also the wheel tub seams, which corrode themselves apart.
Boot Floor:

Very bad area especially around the filler neck, in the back panels seams, above the silencer, wheel tub to floor and in the spare wheel well - the bottom falls out!
Rear Valence:

Rots in the seams but is more likely to be the victim of parking dings.

Engine:

Kent: 1300 Very slow
Pinto: 1600, 2000 Most common, needs oil changes every 5000/6000 miles
Keep oil spray bar clean with regular servicing
Change cambelt every 30,000 miles
2000 Tuning Swap VV carb for Weber 32/36 (135bhp with rejetting)
K&N Air Filter
Kent FR32 Cam (gains 13bhp)
Serious Tuning Stage 2 head - 35.5mm inlets, 38mm exhausts
Kent FR33 cam
Twin 45 DCOE Webers
Cologne: 2300 Swap fibre cam timing gear for steel replacement
High mileage engines can have noisy tappets
2300 Engine Swap 2.8i V6 Cologne from a mk2 Granada or Capri
2.9i V6 Cologne from mk3 Granada

Transmission:

Manual: 4 speed can be swapped for Sierra 5 speed
use Sierra 1.6 for 1.6 Pinto, and Sierra 2.0 for Pinto 2.0
use auto cross member inverted to mount 5 speed
Auto: 3 speed beware front gearbox seal

Suspension:

Front: Double wishbone
Polybush entire front suspension
Heavy steering means front end rebuild
Worn ball joints and track rod ends cause poor wheel alignment
Fit new steering rack at the same time
Fit uprated gas shock absorbers
Uprated lowering springs can be fitted at same time as rear
Rear: Void bush-suspended live rear axle
Polybush entire rear suspension
Fit uprated gas shock absorbers
Uprated lowering springs can be fitted at same time as front
Rear wheel bearings give up before front.

Brakes:

Front: M16 Callipers Fit 2.8i Capri callipers and discs
  Also Capri Sport 290/24mm discs with Granada Scorpio single piston callipers
Austin Princess callipers fit (if you can find them!)
Rear: Drums are 9" on 2.0 and 2.3's Capri Sport rear disc kit bolts straight on. Use Sierra type callipers to get handbrake facility
Other: Master Cylinder Swap for P100 one
Hoses Fit braided brake hoses

Axle:


Back axles are the same type as found in the Capri. However the casings are NOT the same. The Capri axle is mounted on leaf springs whereas the Cortina is on coil springs with radius arms.

However the internals can be swapped over the change ratios and/or to add a limited slip differential. You need the LSD's bolts to hold the ring gear on.

Whatever, the nature of the axle is the ratio swaps or LSD units need to be built into the casing - it's not a third member type.
 

Wheels and Tyres:


Cortinas have huge arches and no leaf springs! Virtually any standard Ford wheel fits (even front wheel drive offsets). Also popular are Peugeot 205 15" rims. Big wheels suit the car, but 16" are the right proportion; 17's don' rub the arches but do look a bit silly. The ideal size is 16's with a 35mm offset and 215/40R/16 tyres.
 

Interior:


Can be very basic or very plush depending on which model you have. The Ghia has most options including matt finished plastic wood. Top of the range seats came in the GLS models and are fishnet Recaro's. Apart fro the usual cigarette burns the seat backs wear along the front edge from people getting in and out.  Only the Ghia option had door speakers.
 

Electrics:


The only niggle is that the headlight fuse can overheat, melting the fusebox.
You'll find out when the headlights don't work! The fusebox will have to be replaced.
 

Year:

T
 August 1978 onwards
V
 August 1979 onwards
W
 August 1980 onwards
X
 August 1981 onwards
Y
 August 1982 - July 1983

 

Buyers Guide from Classic Car Weekly

 

Buy and Modify: MKIV/V Cortina
(Classic Ford - May 2001)

 

Buyers Guide Cortina MKIV & V
(Practical Classics November 2000)

 

 

Promoting the Ford Cortina worldwide regardless of model and/or condition

  
 
Google